Arrived by fast boat on to the party island of Ko Phanghan and were immediately hit with a audio advert for some Muay Thai boxing event. The advert was spoken in a broad cockney accent.
We were aiming for Hat Rin on whose beach the big full moon parties take place. We weren't going to be on the island for the full moon but heard there are parties for all stages of the moon - and there were. Too many parties, far too many.
The boat actually dropped us off in Thonsala so once we realised we were in the wrong town, we got a sangtheuw (truck taxi - spelling of the word probably wrong) to Hat Rin. Dived into a bungalow on the beach (Hat Rin is a surprisingly beautiful beach will no litter at all - full of posers though) and rested before hitting the town and buying elements required to make a bucket, i.e. bottle of Hong Thong, proper Thai red bull, 7 Up, a sand castle bucket and two straws. After having a good dinner on the beach we went for a dance and a drink (no 'dancing in the moonlight' fortunately).
Watched the silly games at a bar such as balloon tied to leg bursting and fire breathing. Saw one particular charver stamping on the balloons of little kids and then getting Muay Thai'd by a ten year old further up the beach. Shame the Thai kid didn't land many of his spinning bird kicks really as this guy was a prize prick.
I'm sure the place is fun but to be honest it was chav central. All the bars played either Friends on loop or Family Guy (turns out this was actually good on our exit day recovering from a hangover). The food was decidedly western and not very good. We did find a local Thai eatery and feasted on decent red curries and pad thais with the obligatory big bottle of Chang.
Partied for three nights and tried to get train tickets from the main land to Bangkok but unfortunately the train was fully booked for the next three days. Our visa was fast running out so we reluctantly booked on a sleeper bus from Surat Thani to Bangkok. Tip for anyone else - book train tickets as soon as you know the date you are travelling. They fill up fast.
As the full moon approached, more and more people of the unsavoury variety arrived in the town. It was time to leave. We got a mini bus to Thonsala, a car ferry to the mainland and then the night bus to Bangkok.
On the boat I began to feel rather ill. This continued all the way to Bangkok. The toilet on the bus was very small even by bus toilet standards and made the act of being very, how do I put it, leaky (?) difficult to say the least. The service station toilet made the need to encourage vomitus maximus null and void. I was a pretty sick individual really. First time since we started travelling so I had a good run. I blame the western food on Ko Phanghan. The boat ride did not help.
So, in a nutshell, Ko Phanghan is good if you want to party and watch Chandler, Joey, Ross, Rachel, Phoebe and Monica whine on in episodes that for some reason you have already seen ten times.
The rest of the island I hear is more beautiful, especially the North but we only saw the famous Hat Rin beach. It was fun and we did our fair share of partying but all in all, not the best place in the world.
Next up, a day and a night in Bangkok before the flight to Hanoi, Vietnam.
Monday 30 April 2012
Sunday 22 April 2012
Ko Tao and the deep blue Gulf of Thailand
Arrived into Ko Tao and got some average directions by a taxi driver. Walked for ages in the early morning heat and Claire felt a bit worse for wear so we ducked into a cheap guesthouse for a lie down.
Guesthouse was ok, nothing special. I was starving so headed off in search of breakfast and found a place that did a decent fry up and coffee.
Spent the day wandering around, found the nearest beach but it was no good for swimming as it was too shallow.
Asked at a few guesthouses for better accommodation and found a place that looked good. Haggled them down from 700 Baht to 400 Baht so was pleased by that effort. This hotel was in Mai Hat, the main town on the island.
Had some dinner and then went to bed again. In the morning I decided to get a scooter as every other Tom, Dick and Harry had one and the taxis were more than the rental. Picked up Claire and fled our now angry guesthouse owner as we had apparently overstayed. A real Jekyll and Hyde character.
Drove to our new guesthouse which was great, really posh and right on the beach. 400 Baht was a bargain. The owner even went into town to get us a hammock for our balcony. He was a bit gay.
Then we drove all the way to Tanote Bay and snorkelled for a while. The 'roads' near the bay were not good so had to walk the bike most of the way down (and back up).
When snorkeling we saw an Octopus having a scrap with some big parrot fish, lots of other tropical fish and some black tip reef sharks. Four of them in a row passed me by. They weren't big but you could tell they were sharks instantly.
Spent the next couple days eating decent Thai curries, drinking cocktails, swimming and playing mini golf - that sort of thing. Sairee to the north of Mai Hat was pretty nice, more lively. On one evening I played snooker with the owner of a snooker hall. Unfortunately I am slightly out of practice and narrowly got beaten. I did manage a break of eight though so not all bad ;-)
On the fourth day we decided to sign up for a PADI Open Water diving course - 8750 Baht each which included accommodation for four nights (albeit in a pretty crap beach shack), insurance and all the equipment hire. Basically everything was provided.
Day one was just a video in a classroom, day two was some classroom stuff, some underwater skills and a 12 metre dive, day three was our exam (48 out of 50, easy) and more underwater skills in the morning followed by another 12 metre dive in the afternoon and on day four we did two 18 metre dives. All the dives and skills were good fun and the instructors at Easy Divers were great.We had a Welsh guy called Johnny.
One evening we went to the Save Ko Tao festival which was huge. Claire's ears were hurting though so we didn't stay too long - just long enough for a hotter than hell Pad Thai.
On the last day of the course we had a videographer who filmed our dives so after the course we went and watched the DVD. It was cheesy but really funny so we bought it.
The next day we left Ko Tao for Ko Phanghan, the full moon party island.
Ko Tao was a nice island if not a bit tatty and dive shop focused. We stayed for eight nights in total - much longer than we had planned. The dive course was great - it was like discovering another world beneath the waves. I'd recommend it to anyone who likes fish and stuff.
Guesthouse was ok, nothing special. I was starving so headed off in search of breakfast and found a place that did a decent fry up and coffee.
Spent the day wandering around, found the nearest beach but it was no good for swimming as it was too shallow.
Asked at a few guesthouses for better accommodation and found a place that looked good. Haggled them down from 700 Baht to 400 Baht so was pleased by that effort. This hotel was in Mai Hat, the main town on the island.
Had some dinner and then went to bed again. In the morning I decided to get a scooter as every other Tom, Dick and Harry had one and the taxis were more than the rental. Picked up Claire and fled our now angry guesthouse owner as we had apparently overstayed. A real Jekyll and Hyde character.
Drove to our new guesthouse which was great, really posh and right on the beach. 400 Baht was a bargain. The owner even went into town to get us a hammock for our balcony. He was a bit gay.
Then we drove all the way to Tanote Bay and snorkelled for a while. The 'roads' near the bay were not good so had to walk the bike most of the way down (and back up).
When snorkeling we saw an Octopus having a scrap with some big parrot fish, lots of other tropical fish and some black tip reef sharks. Four of them in a row passed me by. They weren't big but you could tell they were sharks instantly.
Spent the next couple days eating decent Thai curries, drinking cocktails, swimming and playing mini golf - that sort of thing. Sairee to the north of Mai Hat was pretty nice, more lively. On one evening I played snooker with the owner of a snooker hall. Unfortunately I am slightly out of practice and narrowly got beaten. I did manage a break of eight though so not all bad ;-)
On the fourth day we decided to sign up for a PADI Open Water diving course - 8750 Baht each which included accommodation for four nights (albeit in a pretty crap beach shack), insurance and all the equipment hire. Basically everything was provided.
Day one was just a video in a classroom, day two was some classroom stuff, some underwater skills and a 12 metre dive, day three was our exam (48 out of 50, easy) and more underwater skills in the morning followed by another 12 metre dive in the afternoon and on day four we did two 18 metre dives. All the dives and skills were good fun and the instructors at Easy Divers were great.We had a Welsh guy called Johnny.
One evening we went to the Save Ko Tao festival which was huge. Claire's ears were hurting though so we didn't stay too long - just long enough for a hotter than hell Pad Thai.
On the last day of the course we had a videographer who filmed our dives so after the course we went and watched the DVD. It was cheesy but really funny so we bought it.
The next day we left Ko Tao for Ko Phanghan, the full moon party island.
Ko Tao was a nice island if not a bit tatty and dive shop focused. We stayed for eight nights in total - much longer than we had planned. The dive course was great - it was like discovering another world beneath the waves. I'd recommend it to anyone who likes fish and stuff.
Friday 20 April 2012
Ranong, the visa run to Burma, Chumphon and the night ferry to Ko Tao
Public bused it all the way to Ranong. Second bus had a leak in the roof which drenched Claire. The storm was mental though so no surprise really. Arrived into Ranong as it was getting dark and eventually found some decent digs for four quid a night.
Had some dinner at a very local place which required many new hand singles and gestures and we still got the wrong food. Ah well.
In the morning we bought a trip to Burma and back to allow us 15 more days in Thailand. This went very smoothly indeed. All we saw of Burma was a gorgeous island and a five star hotel. I'm guessing we didn't see the real Burma. Then said bye to Ranong via a minibus driven by an absolute prick. The Thai girl in front of me vomitted for most of the trip to Chumphon on the gulf coast.
Arrived an hour early (not surprised as we travelled at quite a pace) and bought tickets for the night boat to Ko Tao. Had a lousy meal and got bitten lots by mossies. Chumphon, as far as I could tell, is a complete shit hole. Night ferry was great fun, drank neat Hong Thong like pirates and watched the stars whilst enjoying listening to a frustrated German woman moan about the shared rooms.
Arrived on Ko Tao at 5am so slept a bit more on the deck. Ranong was a decent place, very cheap. Chumphon sucked the sweat off a rat's balls.
Next up, Ko Tao and the deep blue Gulf of Thailand
In the morning we bought a trip to Burma and back to allow us 15 more days in Thailand. This went very smoothly indeed. All we saw of Burma was a gorgeous island and a five star hotel. I'm guessing we didn't see the real Burma. Then said bye to Ranong via a minibus driven by an absolute prick. The Thai girl in front of me vomitted for most of the trip to Chumphon on the gulf coast.
Arrived an hour early (not surprised as we travelled at quite a pace) and bought tickets for the night boat to Ko Tao. Had a lousy meal and got bitten lots by mossies. Chumphon, as far as I could tell, is a complete shit hole. Night ferry was great fun, drank neat Hong Thong like pirates and watched the stars whilst enjoying listening to a frustrated German woman moan about the shared rooms.
Arrived on Ko Tao at 5am so slept a bit more on the deck. Ranong was a decent place, very cheap. Chumphon sucked the sweat off a rat's balls.
Next up, Ko Tao and the deep blue Gulf of Thailand
Monday 16 April 2012
Khao Sok and the Jungle Trek
After a very unorganised and manic journey, we arrived at Jungle Huts in Khao Sok National Park. The scenery yet again was stunning and 'crazy woman' running the place sits with us and describes the treks and shows us how to write our names in Thai.
We met some people on the bus so decided to go for a walk to suss the place out. We walked to another more expensive guesthouse and had some dinner. The woman refused to add noodles to Claire's soup for reasons unknown.
Walked back in the dark and haggled with a tour rep and got 200 baht off our two day, one night trek.
Day one of trek.
Set off early in back of a truck and reached a dam about an hour later. Then had a longtail boat ride and saw lots of monkeys and eagles. Arrived at our raft huts which were so rickety it was funny. Jumped in the lake literally from our doorstep then had lunch which was great - a huge buffet of Thai food. Did introductions with the rest of the group then off trekking we went.
The trek was ok, we saw a huge diamond snake (or something like that) in the trees. Then we reached the cave where 9 people had died five years ago (found that out afterwards). The cave started narrow and soon we reached deep water that required some swimming and scrambling. I heard this odd rumbling sound and soon after, the guide told us to move a bit quicker. It was a tad scary but soon the cave widened and dried up. We saw hundreds of bats, some catfish and a massive spider. Reached daylight to a bit of relief. I don't really like caves. More trekking then back to base for dinner which was just as good as lunch, in fact better. Fresh fish and stuff.
Went on a night safari after dinner and saw hornbills, owls and stuff like that then returned to play drinking games. After getting through about ten bottles of some mixed spirit called Hong Thong we were all pretty shit faced. I played some guitar and at about 2am went to bed.
Had to get up early for morning safari during which we saw some gibbons swinging in the trees making their funny noises. Breakfast was just pancakes which were pretty dry if you don't like fruit.
Did one more trek over a mountain and then had a boat ride back to the dam for lunch. Got back to our Jungle Huts and went for dinner with some of the people we had met on the trek. I was knackered so after a few drinks in a reggae bar we went to bed.
Decided to have a lazy day the next day but we still saw lots of wildlife including baby monkeys on our balcony, a chipmunk, a massive toad, some flying lizards and a pet bat who Claire named Rabies.
Had some nice food at this place called Thai Herb and just chilled out. When we were walking home in the dark, the whole town's power went out so it was completely pitch black. That was good fun - knowing that there was jungle nearby made it all the more interesting.
The next day we checked out and planned local transport to Ranong in order to make the border run to Burma so that we could stay in Thailand for 15 more days.
Khao Sok is a really cool place. Pretty scenery, friendly people and good variety. The trek was about £50 each but well worth it for the experience.
Next up, Burma border run.
Set off early in back of a truck and reached a dam about an hour later. Then had a longtail boat ride and saw lots of monkeys and eagles. Arrived at our raft huts which were so rickety it was funny. Jumped in the lake literally from our doorstep then had lunch which was great - a huge buffet of Thai food. Did introductions with the rest of the group then off trekking we went.
The trek was ok, we saw a huge diamond snake (or something like that) in the trees. Then we reached the cave where 9 people had died five years ago (found that out afterwards). The cave started narrow and soon we reached deep water that required some swimming and scrambling. I heard this odd rumbling sound and soon after, the guide told us to move a bit quicker. It was a tad scary but soon the cave widened and dried up. We saw hundreds of bats, some catfish and a massive spider. Reached daylight to a bit of relief. I don't really like caves. More trekking then back to base for dinner which was just as good as lunch, in fact better. Fresh fish and stuff.
Went on a night safari after dinner and saw hornbills, owls and stuff like that then returned to play drinking games. After getting through about ten bottles of some mixed spirit called Hong Thong we were all pretty shit faced. I played some guitar and at about 2am went to bed.
Had to get up early for morning safari during which we saw some gibbons swinging in the trees making their funny noises. Breakfast was just pancakes which were pretty dry if you don't like fruit.
Did one more trek over a mountain and then had a boat ride back to the dam for lunch. Got back to our Jungle Huts and went for dinner with some of the people we had met on the trek. I was knackered so after a few drinks in a reggae bar we went to bed.
Decided to have a lazy day the next day but we still saw lots of wildlife including baby monkeys on our balcony, a chipmunk, a massive toad, some flying lizards and a pet bat who Claire named Rabies.
Had some nice food at this place called Thai Herb and just chilled out. When we were walking home in the dark, the whole town's power went out so it was completely pitch black. That was good fun - knowing that there was jungle nearby made it all the more interesting.
The next day we checked out and planned local transport to Ranong in order to make the border run to Burma so that we could stay in Thailand for 15 more days.
Khao Sok is a really cool place. Pretty scenery, friendly people and good variety. The trek was about £50 each but well worth it for the experience.
Next up, Burma border run.
Friday 13 April 2012
Rai Leh (near Krabi) and Songkran
Arrived into Krabi town in the middle of an almighty thunderstorm. The minibus driver dropped us off at a petrol station as which although offered us shelter from the rain, did not help against the Thai prople who were celebrating Songkran by soaking everyone with hosepipes, buckets of water and water guns. We were absolutely drenched which would have been fine if we didn't have our bags but we did and stuff got wet.
Arranged some transport to the coastal town of Rai Leh which involved a taxi through endless water fights and a longtail boat. The scenery was spectacular, limestones peaks jutting out of the water here, there and everywhere.
Found some digs to stay in which had great views of the huge rocks and then went for some dinner and to watch some Muay Thai boxing. Saw a french guy get battered by a local fighter which was fun.
The next day we hired snorkels and went to Phra Nang cave/beach. It was like swimming in an aquarium - so many fish. There was also a shrine which was full of wooden cocks with no balls. Rather odd. On way back we saw some leaf monkeys which were very cute. Also saw crab eating macaques. Went for sone dinner and got it for free as they kept giving us the wrong change even though I kept telling them it was too much.We kept walking past a sign to the lagoon which pointed up a steep scramble into the forest so on day three we decided to go for it.
The climb was really hard going and quite slippery but after an hour we made it to the top of the 500 metre rock and were rewarded by an amazing view over Rai Leh and the surrounding islands. We then headed for the lagoon but this descent was too dangerous so we headed back down the cliff face. It was a lot harder going down!
We bought some local spirit called Hong Thong to celebrate our clumbing success and then went for a big curry at the restaurant joined on to a bar named Last Bar.
Met some Russians at the guesthouse who shared their vodka with us and a Serbian guy. We kept the peace between them.
Got up early and boughg a bus ticket to Khao Sok for 400 baht, had some breakfast at a cool little beach hut and then off we went.
Krabi town itself was just your average town but the nearby beach towns like Rai Leh are really cool. They feel like islands as they are only accessible by boat but are actually on the mainland. The rock climbing here is superb and there are many trips you can book. Glad we came to Rai Leh as it was a stunning setting with lots to do.
Next up, Khao Sok: The Jungle
Monday 9 April 2012
Ko Lipe, Thailand
Arrived by boat but as this tiny island has no piers, had to literally jump on to a long tail boat to reach shore.
Instantly felt the vibe here. Chilled out, friendly, quiet, no cars, beautiful.
Wandered around trying to find a cheap hut to sleep in and ended up at first place we looked at again. It was a bamboo hut with a private bathroom and even a TV!
Went for a drink on the beach then had some thai food and then went to bed.
Woke up early and hired snorkelling gear. Main beach was too choppy so we headed for sunset beach. Water was very clear and we saw loads of bright coloured fish. Did snorkelling all day then had some dinner,
Sunk a few Changs and then went to bed.
Decided to do kayaking the next day and got one for 400 baht for the whole day. We planned to circumnavigate the entire island so stocked up on water and set sail/paddle.
Found a tiny island about 200 metres off the coast that had a mini beach. Went swimming for a while before continuing on. Found a beach with loads of monkeys on it so watched them for a while.
Got one beach from home when a woman came down the beach asking if we were staying at the hotel there. We said no, unsure if it was a private beach or not and expecting to be told to sod off but she said
"don't panic but there has been a huge earthquake off the coast of Sumatra and the tsunami warning sirens had gone off". We obviously panicked and paddled back to our beach at warp speed, eyes fixed on
the horizon to check for massive waves approaching. I'll do a separate post on this as it was quite an experience. See 'Indian Ocean Tsunami Warning 11/4/12'.
Daylight after the tsunami warning came and a weird atmosphere hung around the place. All boats back to the mainland had sold out so we decided to stay another night. We had planned to get tickets to leave
the day before but being stuck up a mountain all night scuppered those plans somewhat.
The island seemed deserted. Spoke to some locals who said that many Westerners had got scared and fled. Seemed a shame really but hey, the quiet island was now almost private! Normality returned in the afternoon and good spirited locals began laughing and joking again.
Booked tickets to Krabi, had a swim in the sea, ate some lunch (Claire had a pizza!) and then in the evening took some Changs to sunset beach to watch, yep, you guessed it, the sunset. The colours were fantastic
and it was nice to just sit back, relax and admire the sun setting.
Watched some cute dogs chase these dead quick crabs about then met a guy called Jim who showed us this phenomenon where this species of plankton glow in the dark, There were thousands of tiny lights all along the shoreline which looked cool.
Chilled out at reggae bar called Boom Boom bar and then walked back in the pitch dark guided by three little kittens.
Slept pretty well, got up, had breakfast (thai pancakes) and set off to Krabi.
Ko Lipe will always be a place I remember not just because of the tsunami warning but also because it was one of the coolest places I've ever been with very friendly people.
Next up, Rai Leh (near to Krabi town).
Instantly felt the vibe here. Chilled out, friendly, quiet, no cars, beautiful.
Wandered around trying to find a cheap hut to sleep in and ended up at first place we looked at again. It was a bamboo hut with a private bathroom and even a TV!
Went for a drink on the beach then had some thai food and then went to bed.
Woke up early and hired snorkelling gear. Main beach was too choppy so we headed for sunset beach. Water was very clear and we saw loads of bright coloured fish. Did snorkelling all day then had some dinner,
Sunk a few Changs and then went to bed.
Decided to do kayaking the next day and got one for 400 baht for the whole day. We planned to circumnavigate the entire island so stocked up on water and set sail/paddle.
Found a tiny island about 200 metres off the coast that had a mini beach. Went swimming for a while before continuing on. Found a beach with loads of monkeys on it so watched them for a while.
Got one beach from home when a woman came down the beach asking if we were staying at the hotel there. We said no, unsure if it was a private beach or not and expecting to be told to sod off but she said
"don't panic but there has been a huge earthquake off the coast of Sumatra and the tsunami warning sirens had gone off". We obviously panicked and paddled back to our beach at warp speed, eyes fixed on
the horizon to check for massive waves approaching. I'll do a separate post on this as it was quite an experience. See 'Indian Ocean Tsunami Warning 11/4/12'.
Daylight after the tsunami warning came and a weird atmosphere hung around the place. All boats back to the mainland had sold out so we decided to stay another night. We had planned to get tickets to leave
the day before but being stuck up a mountain all night scuppered those plans somewhat.
The island seemed deserted. Spoke to some locals who said that many Westerners had got scared and fled. Seemed a shame really but hey, the quiet island was now almost private! Normality returned in the afternoon and good spirited locals began laughing and joking again.
Booked tickets to Krabi, had a swim in the sea, ate some lunch (Claire had a pizza!) and then in the evening took some Changs to sunset beach to watch, yep, you guessed it, the sunset. The colours were fantastic
and it was nice to just sit back, relax and admire the sun setting.
Watched some cute dogs chase these dead quick crabs about then met a guy called Jim who showed us this phenomenon where this species of plankton glow in the dark, There were thousands of tiny lights all along the shoreline which looked cool.
Chilled out at reggae bar called Boom Boom bar and then walked back in the pitch dark guided by three little kittens.
Slept pretty well, got up, had breakfast (thai pancakes) and set off to Krabi.
Ko Lipe will always be a place I remember not just because of the tsunami warning but also because it was one of the coolest places I've ever been with very friendly people.
Next up, Rai Leh (near to Krabi town).
Thursday 5 April 2012
Langkawi (via Penang)
Got a coach to George Town in Penang and walked to the budget guesthouse area. Looked at a few places and as usual ended up at the first place we looked at. It was so hot so we went to an air conditioned museum which was fairly interesting. Bought a boat ticket to Langkawi and had some cheap street food in Little India.
Penang was actually quite nice and there appeared to be quite a lot to do but as we were only there for one night we mainly just ate food which was the best so far - no wonder Penang has a good reputation for its food.
Set off early and had to wake the Chinese woman who ran the guesthouse up to pay and let us out. There was a prostitute still at work so we knew it was really early still. Had an amazing Chanai Roti (two actually) and boarded the boat. Guy taking tickets had a Forest top on, just hoped the boat didn't go down too.
Arrived in Langkawi mid afternnon and got a cab to the beach area called Cenang. Cad driver was an old fool who drove badly and dropped us off too early. A very helpful owner of a guesthouse gave us some directions and a free coffee and about half an hour later we arrived at Gecko guesthouse. This was full but it was ok because opposite was a better place called Kampung guesthouse which was very clean and modern and cheap.
Went to the beach and finally got in the sea! It was so hot - like getting into a bath. Had some food and then went back to our guesthouse.
Met another couple and had a 'few' drinks (cherry vodka, duty free, work it out). Went to a local night market and ate some weird local food.
Woke up with a sore head and sore feet as my new flip flops had cut my toes up something rotten.
Next few days were similar: mainly chilling out, swimming, eating great food at a place called 'Tomato' and having a few cheap beers. Claire even got some Strongbow!
Stayed for four nights in the end and got to know the local cats who we named Cheezel, Soot Mite and Ziggy.
As it was our anniversary on the 7th, we went to Tomato and ordered so much food that they had to bring us an extra table. The locals looked at us as if to say "fat bastards" but never mind. We ate the lot and then went to book a boat to Ko Lipe in Thailand.
The journey to Ko Lipe was a ball ache as it went to Satun on the mainland of Thailand first for immigration and then on to Ko Lipe. Got out hands on some baht and watched as the islands began to appear on the horizon and as Langkawi faded in the distance.
Langkawi was an ok place although any western food there was terrible. It was the cheapest place to drink in Malaysia as it is completely duty free.
Malaysia on a whole is a friendly place with good food although it is a bit rough around the edges and somewhat neglected.
Thailand adventures to follow, stay tuned...
Penang was actually quite nice and there appeared to be quite a lot to do but as we were only there for one night we mainly just ate food which was the best so far - no wonder Penang has a good reputation for its food.
Set off early and had to wake the Chinese woman who ran the guesthouse up to pay and let us out. There was a prostitute still at work so we knew it was really early still. Had an amazing Chanai Roti (two actually) and boarded the boat. Guy taking tickets had a Forest top on, just hoped the boat didn't go down too.
Arrived in Langkawi mid afternnon and got a cab to the beach area called Cenang. Cad driver was an old fool who drove badly and dropped us off too early. A very helpful owner of a guesthouse gave us some directions and a free coffee and about half an hour later we arrived at Gecko guesthouse. This was full but it was ok because opposite was a better place called Kampung guesthouse which was very clean and modern and cheap.
Went to the beach and finally got in the sea! It was so hot - like getting into a bath. Had some food and then went back to our guesthouse.
Met another couple and had a 'few' drinks (cherry vodka, duty free, work it out). Went to a local night market and ate some weird local food.
Woke up with a sore head and sore feet as my new flip flops had cut my toes up something rotten.
Next few days were similar: mainly chilling out, swimming, eating great food at a place called 'Tomato' and having a few cheap beers. Claire even got some Strongbow!
Stayed for four nights in the end and got to know the local cats who we named Cheezel, Soot Mite and Ziggy.
As it was our anniversary on the 7th, we went to Tomato and ordered so much food that they had to bring us an extra table. The locals looked at us as if to say "fat bastards" but never mind. We ate the lot and then went to book a boat to Ko Lipe in Thailand.
The journey to Ko Lipe was a ball ache as it went to Satun on the mainland of Thailand first for immigration and then on to Ko Lipe. Got out hands on some baht and watched as the islands began to appear on the horizon and as Langkawi faded in the distance.
Langkawi was an ok place although any western food there was terrible. It was the cheapest place to drink in Malaysia as it is completely duty free.
Malaysia on a whole is a friendly place with good food although it is a bit rough around the edges and somewhat neglected.
Thailand adventures to follow, stay tuned...
Sunday 1 April 2012
The Cameron Highlands
Day 2:
Went for breakfast and had the usual egg roti chanai (or whatever it is called) and some nice coffees. Decided that as the rain was pouring down that it would be a good idea to purchase a cheap poncho. Bought some but Claire's had a big rip in it. Took it back and managed to get it swapped. As soon as we donned the ponchos, the rain stopped. Typical.
Went looking for jungle trail number 10 and eventually found it despite a complete lack of sign posts. The trek was really steep and pretty hard work but the views were worth it. Scaled a mountain and then got a bit lost trying to work out which way the trail was supposed to go. Both ways looked dodgy so we just made as educated guess and it turned out ok. Saw lots of pretty butterflies and wild orchids and also some not so pretty caterpillars. At the top there was loads of swallows flying around our heads so close that you could hear their wings. We also have a swallow nest on our balcony.
At the bottom of the trail we ended up at a huge electric power station and had to walk all the way around it to get on to the road. We walked about three miles back into town and looked at a map - we had gone wrong by quite a margin. Good fun though.
Had a mini siesta then went for dinner at Rosedale Bistro. Food was great and cheap. We were both knackered after the trek so fell asleep at the early hour of about 10pm. Slept like a log (two nights in a row!).
Day 3:
Decided to book a trip up a bigger mountain (Mount Brinchan - 6666ft) and other stuff so had breakfast and bought tickets. Also bought bus tickets to our next destination, Pulau Penang. As the trip didn't leave until 2pm we decided to try a shorter jungle trek. It was a bit crap and the waterfall was rather pathetic but we did see some new birds and some butterflies.
Set off on the trip at 2pm with our guide, Annan. We were the only two going as every one else had gone in the morning (we got up late). The rain started falling as we got into the Land Rover for the journey. Annan was a cool old guy who knew lots about everything to do with the Cameron Highlands. His Land Rover had transmission problems though and he had only 1st and 2nd gear to play with.
As it was raining we stopped at a butterfly farm first. This was quite good but the best, unexpected part, was the insects tour especially for us. Here we got up close and very personal with all sorts of creatures including rhino and elephant beetles, snakes, giant grasshoppers and even scorpions. The guy showing us these things asked if we wanted to hold them. I had the camera so couldn't but Claire did. She was scared holding the massive scorpion but ok with the rest. I did hold a stick that the Rhino Beetle was on but that's about it.
We then went to a tea plantation which made the landscape look gorgeous - like a big green carpet for miles. We had a tour of the factory and drank some fresh tea. We then drove to the top of the mountain and climbed a watchtower to get good views. The rain was coming in though so there was only a good view to one side of the mountain. The watchtower had incredibly steep stairs and was pretty high. I reckon we must have been 6700 feet above sea level.
Then it was on to the Mossy Forest (apparently the inspiration for Avatar). It was very misty and wet but Annan was a good guide and showed us good techniques to get through and climbing up the rainforest. The forest was so nice and as we were up in the clouds, it was misty and almost mystical. We saw some carnivorous plants up there too.
The tour took about four hours and we got back to Tamah Rata (in 2nd gear) and shook Annan's hand to say thanks for a cool trek and trip. Well worth it.
Went for dinner and had tandoori chicken whilst Claire had a Banana Leaf curry. Food was good and after that we just came back to the hotel (we booked in for another night as it is so nice here). Just watched a thunderstorm and have packed our bags ready for the 8am bus tomorrow to Pulau Penang. Should mention that our bags are so small compared to other backpackers. I'm using an old 25 litre (school) bag and Claire's is 30 litres so we are travelling extremely light.
Will be sad to say bye to The Cameron Highlands - definitely the best place we've been so far.
Photos to follow.
Went for breakfast and had the usual egg roti chanai (or whatever it is called) and some nice coffees. Decided that as the rain was pouring down that it would be a good idea to purchase a cheap poncho. Bought some but Claire's had a big rip in it. Took it back and managed to get it swapped. As soon as we donned the ponchos, the rain stopped. Typical.
Went looking for jungle trail number 10 and eventually found it despite a complete lack of sign posts. The trek was really steep and pretty hard work but the views were worth it. Scaled a mountain and then got a bit lost trying to work out which way the trail was supposed to go. Both ways looked dodgy so we just made as educated guess and it turned out ok. Saw lots of pretty butterflies and wild orchids and also some not so pretty caterpillars. At the top there was loads of swallows flying around our heads so close that you could hear their wings. We also have a swallow nest on our balcony.
At the bottom of the trail we ended up at a huge electric power station and had to walk all the way around it to get on to the road. We walked about three miles back into town and looked at a map - we had gone wrong by quite a margin. Good fun though.
Had a mini siesta then went for dinner at Rosedale Bistro. Food was great and cheap. We were both knackered after the trek so fell asleep at the early hour of about 10pm. Slept like a log (two nights in a row!).
Day 3:
Decided to book a trip up a bigger mountain (Mount Brinchan - 6666ft) and other stuff so had breakfast and bought tickets. Also bought bus tickets to our next destination, Pulau Penang. As the trip didn't leave until 2pm we decided to try a shorter jungle trek. It was a bit crap and the waterfall was rather pathetic but we did see some new birds and some butterflies.
Set off on the trip at 2pm with our guide, Annan. We were the only two going as every one else had gone in the morning (we got up late). The rain started falling as we got into the Land Rover for the journey. Annan was a cool old guy who knew lots about everything to do with the Cameron Highlands. His Land Rover had transmission problems though and he had only 1st and 2nd gear to play with.
As it was raining we stopped at a butterfly farm first. This was quite good but the best, unexpected part, was the insects tour especially for us. Here we got up close and very personal with all sorts of creatures including rhino and elephant beetles, snakes, giant grasshoppers and even scorpions. The guy showing us these things asked if we wanted to hold them. I had the camera so couldn't but Claire did. She was scared holding the massive scorpion but ok with the rest. I did hold a stick that the Rhino Beetle was on but that's about it.
We then went to a tea plantation which made the landscape look gorgeous - like a big green carpet for miles. We had a tour of the factory and drank some fresh tea. We then drove to the top of the mountain and climbed a watchtower to get good views. The rain was coming in though so there was only a good view to one side of the mountain. The watchtower had incredibly steep stairs and was pretty high. I reckon we must have been 6700 feet above sea level.
Then it was on to the Mossy Forest (apparently the inspiration for Avatar). It was very misty and wet but Annan was a good guide and showed us good techniques to get through and climbing up the rainforest. The forest was so nice and as we were up in the clouds, it was misty and almost mystical. We saw some carnivorous plants up there too.
The tour took about four hours and we got back to Tamah Rata (in 2nd gear) and shook Annan's hand to say thanks for a cool trek and trip. Well worth it.
Went for dinner and had tandoori chicken whilst Claire had a Banana Leaf curry. Food was good and after that we just came back to the hotel (we booked in for another night as it is so nice here). Just watched a thunderstorm and have packed our bags ready for the 8am bus tomorrow to Pulau Penang. Should mention that our bags are so small compared to other backpackers. I'm using an old 25 litre (school) bag and Claire's is 30 litres so we are travelling extremely light.
Will be sad to say bye to The Cameron Highlands - definitely the best place we've been so far.
Photos to follow.
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