Hanoi. Vietnam

Landed with a few bounces in to Hanoi. Found the visa on arrival window and after presenting our letters of approval and US $25 and after a few confusing minutes we were in! Became a millionaire (£30 ish) and had a much needed coffee.

Got to sample the roads via a minibus to the old quarter of Hanoi. Took about an hour and we saw three minor crashes plus a cage rammed full of cats on the back of a scooter.

As our minibus reached the drop off point ten or so hungry xe om (motorbike taxis) touts ran over. We got through the crowds of them and walked the "two kilometres" to the backpacker area. It was about 400 metres away.

I was still having serious cramp issues so we took the first hotel we looked at. It had a TV and air conditioning and I was glad of these luxuries in my delicate state.

Got some kip and then ventured into the manic and dizzying city. Had to eat something as I was getting a bit weak so went into a cool little cafe called 'Gecko'. Ordered a simple pizza and spent over an hour eating it and then grimacing as my stomach muscles were called into action. Felt bad for the waiter watching me - the food was great, just my guts that weren't so great.

Next day we got a coffee and walked around a lake. Had some great breakfast and some cake at a swanky joint on the lake. The cramps were settling down but still caused me some pain until the next day really.

Got a bit lost in the old quarter and had to tell about a dozen shoe repair guys that I didn't want my shoe mending (I didn't even realise it was broken!).

Got some info on tours to Halong Bay and umm'ed and ahh'ed about whether to do a guided tour or go it alone (we picked the latter).

Ate some plain fried rice for dinner. Claire got the worst minestrone soup ever - it was anything but minestrone. Complained and got a different soup which was also pretty hopeless. Tip: avoid Moon restaurant.

Day three in Vietnam and the old guts had returned to normal so went for a nice big fry up. Scoffed the lot with not even a hint of cramp. Was very pleased. Might be going on about the cramps but they were pretty severe. At one point I half expected to give birth!

Watched Robin Hood on TV then walked around a lot dodging scooters and street vendors. Hit a rooftop bar and drank Bia Hoi for a few hours then had amazing garlic bread abnd chips from Gecko.

On the last night there was a huge thunderstorm which knocked the power out all night. We watched the storm from our tiny window on the seventh floor. It was spectacular.

Departure day went smoothly. Walked past a cathedral which looked really cool, all dirty and old. Went back to posh cafe on the lake, had breakfast then got a taxi to the southern bus station. Traffic from inside a taxi seemed less frantic.

Got tickets to Cat Ba in Halong Bay, a journey which would involve three buses and a hydrofoil.

Waited for the bus and saw a biplane (spelling?) go over us.

Hanoi is the first place on our travels which has felt completely different to other places. The pace of life was incredible and the apparant order amidst such chaos was at sometimes overwhelming and always exciting. I liked it a lot. Just wish I'd been able to enjoy the first couple of days more.

Next up, Cat Ba and Halong Bay. Stay tuned.

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