Luang Prabang Part I
Got a double decker bus for the seven hour journey over some huge mountains to Luang Prabang. We hit a dog along the way. Dog presumed dead. Arrived at about 6pm and got a tuk tuk into town. Had to walk through the ethnic handicraft night market which had a head clearance of about five foot so I had to duck all the through it. Annoying.
Had a look at two guesthouses on the main strip and took the second one as it had air conditioning and it was so bloody hot we needed it. Staff were a bit miserable but room was nice.
Headed out for dinner and a look at the town. It's a pretty place with ornate wats here there and everywhere. There are also a lot of old people around dragging their suitcases. The place caters for all types of people.
I ordered a pizza from the hopeless Coconut restaurant and the waiter dropped it as he was coming out of the kitchen. I clearly saw this act of clumsiness but he brought the pizza over anyway minus one of the six slices.
I told him that I'd seen him drop it and he said ok, he'll give me a discount. Nearly burst out laughing when he offered a measly 10% off. The thing was burnt as well and looked bloody awful. I politely refused the deal of the century and requested a new pizza, less burnt and less dropped. Eventually got my pizza and it was horrid, as was Claire's.
It rained in the night and there was a very annoying and loud dripping right outside our window so neither of us slept. Complained in the morning and moved rooms. Second room was just as bad really but we got a bit more sleep thankfully.
In the morning we went to a posh French cafe and Claire had a really nice quiche. The waiter kept topping our glasses up with water as it was unbearably hot. Must have drank about ten glasses in the half an hour we were in there.
Wandered about the town all day and in the evening went to a fashion show at a trendy bar in the entertainment quarter. Cocktails were really tiny and overpriced. Fashion show was ok, all the clothes were made by the various ethnic tribes so it was quite interesting to watch. Had to endure some unfunny American guys talking utter bollocks in the next bar so left and went to bed.
Decided that Luang Prabang was not for us so tried to get a flight out to Thailand. Found out that you have to book three days in advance which presented us with a bit of a dilemma. We didn't want to stay in Luang Prabang but couldn't get out. As we had been recommended it by Malek and Ulrika (friends who we met in Halong Bay and later in Hoi An), we booked a bus even further North to a small town called Nong Khiaw. Had another disappointing meal and another restless night and were glad to leave early the next morning.
UNESCO world heritage site, Luang Prabang was a massive disappointment. Despite it being quite a pretty place, it feels incredibly fake and contrived. Too many things went wrong for us and we just didn't enjoy it at all. We were a bit gutted that we'd have to spend one more night there in order to make our flight to Chiang Mai in Thailand.
Nong Khiaw
It was a nice drive in a minibus up to Nong Khiaw and we arrived in heavy rain. Fortunately it eased and we quickly realised why the place is recommended. We thought Vang Vieng was scenic but this was on another level altogether. Enormous karsts rising all around the tiny village and the river winding through the middle. Simply stunning.
Decided to stay on the other side of the river from Nong Khiaw as there were nicer bungalows and more restaurants. Our bungalow was gorgeous. Right on the riverfront with a hammock from which the view was spectacular. Bought a couple of changs and just relaxed. Had some local sausage and sticky rice for tea. Not bad at all.
Slept really well but soon had a panic when we found out the only internet place was shut as it was low season. With no laptop and a bipolar phone we didn't have a method of booking our flights. Feared that we'd have to stay in Luang Prabang for more than one more night. Asked around and got pointed to a posh resort which thankfully had a computer. Booked plane tickets and took a deep breath.
Went for a long walk in the countryside taking extra special care not to stray from the footpaths as there are lots of unexploded landmines in the area. Got to a cave but didn't go in as there was a padlocked gate on the entrance stairs. Bit annoyed that it wasn't open but hey, I don't like caves so not that annoyed really!
On the way back we stopped off at a little restaurant and had some spring rolls and a beer. The restaurant was named after the cute baby girl who lived there. Really nice family and good food.
Spent the rest of the day on the balcony watching the butterflies and enjoying the scenery. Also found out how to get back to Luang Prabang from some other travellers. No travel agents in the village so it would be public buses for us.
The next morning we saddled up and walked to the bus station. Waited for a while as usual and the 11am bus finally left at about noon. Lao time is just like this. You get used to it but it does kind of get on your nerves. During the journey we had a man with a rifle sat behind us and a monk to the side. The driver was a maniac and looked like he could have used some sleep.
Nong Khiaw (or more accurately the village on the other side of the river) was unbelievably scenic. Possibly the most scenic place I've ever visited. Gibbon calls through the mountain mist, a myriad of butterfly species and very cheerful and friendly locals made it a welcome break from the circus of Luang Prabang. Shame we couldn't have stayed a bit longer really.
Luang Prabang Part II
Got back to overrated Luang Prabang and grimaced as we realised that we had mixed our dates up. We had returned a day early so had two nights in Luang Prabang instead of just the one. Noooooo! Could have happily stayed in our bungalow in Nong Khiaw. Oh well, let's give Luang Prabang another chance at charming us. To be fair, it was nicer this time round. We stayed in a different part of town and tried to stay away from the touristy part.
Claire had left her earrings in the guesthouse we stayed at on our first visit so we went to try and get them back. No sign of them so clearly the cleaner had swiped them. Claire not happy.
We found a place that did a cheese platter and wine so gorged all evening before finding a happy hour where Claire could get even more wine. Met a couple we'd spoken to after tubing in Vang Vieng and stayed up past the local curfew drinking with them.
Claire got ill with bad stomach cramps in the morning so I had to play doctor. Went on many errands during the day so didn't really get to do that much, not that there was that much to do anyway.
The next day we were finally leaving Laos. Got a tuk tuk to the airport and waited for our flight. The airport is tiny and there is nothing to do after you've gone through the security gate. No shop or anything, not even any water available.
Claire was still in a bad way but did well and made it on to the plane ok. The plane was tiny. Two propellers and many empty seats. Service was excellent and the flight was enjoyable, especially the free beer Lao and sandwiches. Just one hour later we landed in Chiang Mai.
Second time around, Luang Prabang was a bit better. I'm still struggling to see what all the fuss is about though. I'd say there are much better places to visit.
Laos itself was also a bit disappointing. True, it has awesome scenery and a relaxed feel but it seemed expensive for what you get in comparison to the neighbouring countries and the people weren't as welcoming. The time it takes to get around is also a bit tiresome after a while. Its capital city was diabolical and its cultural heart was overrated. Tubing was great though.
Next up, Twice in Chiang Mai, a healthy slice of Pai.
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